How Japan Marries Past and Present

We have been touring the highest flooring of a fish flake (katsuobushi) manufacturing facility referred to as Yamagawa Suisan, wandering amid rock-solid stacks of dried skipjack tuna, harking back to petrified wooden. The roof was charred with smoke from the kilns. In a nook, surrounded by piles of tons of of fish, a diminutive man in soiled Velcro sneakers and a sweatsuit, a white rag wrapped round his head, was sorting by means of the fish one-by-one, inspecting every hardened filet for perfection.

At first, I assumed this was merely a lowly manufacturing facility employee, however our tour information later defined this sweaty fellow, squatting on the bottom and lined in grime, painstakingly going over each fish filet by hand, was truly the corporate’s CEO. He seemed up at us and provided a half-smile, however appeared much more involved together with his work than hamming it up for some vacationers.

Initially, I used to be shocked. Then, I needed to purchase as a lot katsuobushi as I might. (Fortunately we later stepped outdoors to the harbor and have been invited to grind our personal.) This was a particular expertise, as a result of katsuobushi produced by means of this course of—which includes repeatedly making use of mould and sun-drying smoked bonito over a number of months to mature it—and is taken into account the very best grade of katsuobushi, as is called honkarebushi. Kagoshima accounts for 70% of Japan’s honkarebushi manufacturing, so it’s the most effective place in Japan to seek out some.

It was this uncooked authenticity, without delay deeply conventional and—in a world marred by performative fakery—remarkably unconventional, that marked my time in Japan.

I used to be in Japan with the Tokyo Conference & Guests Bureau, and though we spent most of our time on the quiet Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s important islands, our first few days have been in Tokyo. 

We kicked off the journey not within the neon-drenched future, however in a richly grounded previous. We visited a Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple, Kinryu-ji, the place a monk led us in a session of conventional zazen meditation.

The silence, damaged solely by the occasional shuffle of a gown or the distant metropolis hum, was profound. It wasn’t about clearing the thoughts completely, however about anchoring it—a sensation I hadn’t felt in months.

This was adopted by instruction within the serene artwork of calligraphy, the place I watched the monk transfer a brush with the fluid confidence of a dancer, and eventually, a elegant matcha tea ceremony. The colourful inexperienced liquid, whisked to a fragile froth, tasted earthy and complicated, a heat ritual that offered a fantastic, quiet begin to a really loud journey. It was the right counterpoint to the frenzy I knew was coming.

That rush arrived with the subsequent cease: SHIBUYA SCRAMBLE SQUARE. I needed to see the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection from a brand new perspective, and there’s no higher place than the SHIBUYA SKY remark facility. We soared greater than 751 ft into the air—a dizzying ascent that put the complete metropolis into breathtaking perspective.

Up there, the chaos of the pedestrians beneath, which moments earlier than had appeared overwhelming, grew to become a choreographed, mesmerizing ballet of humanity. The horizon was a shimmering panorama of glass and metal, past it rising the majestic, snow-capped cone of Mt. Fuji (12,389 ft). It was a humbling second—once more, an odd distinction of previous and current—that image of historical Japan silhouetted above the sprawl of its high-tech, ultramodern metropolis.

Considered one of our different favourite stops in Tokyo was about unleashing a unique form of power: rhythm and uncooked energy at TAIKO-LAB. Right here we realized find out how to apply taiko, a conventional type of Japanese drumming that’s each an intense, high-energy cardio exercise and a religious launch suddenly. Standing earlier than a large drum, I realized the vigorous choreography, the exact stances, and the explosive actions required to supply these booming, resonating notes. There was plenty of exhilarating shouting—the kiai—that targeted the power and turned the music right into a communal roar. It was a visceral expertise that stayed with me lengthy after the category ended. I left TAIKO-LAB exhausted, however exhilarated.

That evening, we loved an evening out in Sangenjaya (“Sancha”), one in every of Tokyo’s trendiest neighborhoods. We ducked into Sancha Ikkyu Hanare, a comfortable, bustling izakaya restaurant that completely captured the neighborhood’s laid-back, bohemian vibe.

The air inside was thick with the savory aroma of conventional dishes—from yakitori to karaage, sashimi, edamame, agedashi tofu, tamagoyaki and extra—and the energetic chatter of locals unwinding after a protracted day. Over shared plates and chilly beers, we soaked within the intimate, genuine environment that makes Tokyo’s eating tradition so legendary. It was the right capstone to a bodily demanding day—particularly in spite of everything that taiko drumming!

After the dizzying heights and intense power of Tokyo, we flew south to Kyushu, stepping right into a quieter, older facet of Japan and visiting the provinces of Miyazaki and Kagoshima. The transition itself was seamless: we flew with Japan Airways (JAL) from Tokyo, and the flights have been quick, clear, and surprisingly inexpensive. (As a professional tip for anybody making this journey, for those who’re fortunate, you may even be handled to extra views of Mt. Fuji as you fly south!)

Our first main cease was the spectacular, deep Takachiho Gorge. This location is a geological surprise, with dramatic columnar basalt cliffs hovering tons of of ft above a turquoise river. However we did not need to jam up with different vacationers at a well known viewpoint. We linked up with native clothing store Trailhead Takachiho, who launched us to the world of packrafting: moveable rubber boats that may be inflated with air and carried into distant areas.

We paddled up the gorge to a pristine waterfall, every of us paddling our personal small, sturdy craft. The gorge partitions closed in round us, the air cooled, and the sound of the skin world fully vanished. The expertise of floating beneath the waterfall’s cascade was completely magical—a hidden gem that made every of us really feel like we’d “found” one thing new.

Later, we witnessed the Takachiho Kagura, an historical Shinto dancing ritual carried out late at evening at a close-by shrine. The environment was thick with historical past and reverence, as we watched a sequence of 4 dances devoted to the gods. Gazing on the masked performers, bathed within the delicate, flickering mild, was unforgettable.

Once more, the expertise was of nice contrasts; an artwork kind that connects the trendy viewer on to the nation’s oldest religious traditions. (A neighborhood deity, a boisterous masked dancer, even approached and symbolically ‘ate my head’—apparently, it’s good luck. I’ll take it!)

The serenity continued the subsequent day at Manai Falls, one in every of Japan’s most lovely waterfalls, which is alongside one other, extra simply accessed part of the Takachiho Gorge.

The sight of the water plunging from a dark-green cliff face into the river beneath is basic Japan. You’ll be able to stroll alongside the dramatic columnar basalt gorge for an elevated view, however for the closest, most immersive expertise, I recommend renting a rowboat and paddling right up to the falls.

We later took a journey on the Amaterasu Railway. This is not your typical commuter practice; it runs throughout Japan’s highest railroad bridge (345 ft!) in an open-car setup. The sky-high thrills have been instant. The views of the encircling valley are epic, an impressive patchwork of fields and forests.

The very best half, nonetheless, was the conductors blowing 1000’s of bubbles into the air round us—a easy, joyful contact that made the entire expertise really feel like a playful journey by means of the clouds, à la Hayao Miyazaki.

A few days later, we have been at Aoshima Shrine. Situated on a tiny, lush island linked to the mainland by a pedestrian bridge, this vibrant vermilion shrine is famously surrounded by the “Satan’s Washboard,” placing, corrugated basalt rock formations formed by centuries of crashing waves. Strolling by means of the dense, tropical jungle path to succeed in the principle altar felt like entering into an historical fable. (Once more, I used to be reminded of Miyazaki’s Princess Mononoke.)

All of us paid our respects on the shrine, purifying ourselves on the water pavilion (temizuya) outdoors after which, after approaching the shrine, bowing twice, clapping twice, and bowing once more within the conventional Shinto method.

One other favourite cease in Miyazaki Prefecture was into the world of Japanese spirits at KIRISHIMA SHUZO. Their shōchū is famous, one of many best-selling on the earth (it’s even been served on the Oscars).

Touring the manufacturing facility was fascinating. We noticed the meticulous course of firsthand, from the collection of the candy potato and rice koji to the distillation. The size of manufacturing, with such strict high quality management, is mind-blowing. The tour culminated, because it ought to, with a scrumptious sampling of this clear, advanced Japanese spirit. It was easy, highly effective, and I most likely had a bit greater than I ought to’ve…

The tour continued with a go to to Sakurajima, one in every of Japan’s most energetic volcanoes, looming majestically over Kagoshima Bay. Fixed plumes of ash billowed from its jagged peak, a stark, day by day reminder of the uncooked geothermal energy thrumming simply beneath Kyushu’s floor.

We took a brief ferry journey throughout the bay, marveling on the rugged, lava-scarred panorama that blankets its base, after which visited a museum to study extra concerning the area’s geological historical past. Standing within the shadow of the smoking peak was deeply humbling, completely encapsulating the untamed pure fantastic thing about southern Japan.

After our go to to the volcano, we stopped at Saraku Sand Bathtub Corridor, alongside the coast south of the volcano. This “scorching sand tub” expertise was one other spotlight of my voyage by means of Kyushu. Clad in mild cotton yukata robes, we stepped into holes dug on the seashore and lay down whereas attendants swiftly buried us as much as our necks in heavy, volcanically-heated sand.

The feeling was instant and intense, a full-body compression that drew out buckets of sweat as we listened to the soothing, rhythmic crash of the close by ocean waves. After about fifteen minutes of this earthy roasting, we emerged from the sand feeling surprisingly lighter, deeply relaxed, and fully revitalized.

Past our evening out in Sancha, the journey additionally included loads of scrumptious delicacies. That’s as a result of Japan is, unequivocally, a complete foodie paradise. (Tokyo alone has extra Michelin star eating places than some other metropolis on the earth!) On our journey, we received to go behind the scenes, to witness the artistry and dedication that goes into creating among the world’s best delicacies.

Later, we headed to Ibusuki Metropolis for that Katsuobushi Manufacturing facility Tour I discussed earlier. Shortly earlier than assembly the CEO, we entered a -50°C freezer the place the huge dried fish logs are saved. I might really feel the snot freezing in my nostril, and the moist towels we got as props froze strong in mere seconds! 

The subsequent day, we devoted time to the quiet artwork of inexperienced tea. At Wakohen, one in every of Japan’s largest tea firms, I realized to understand the sophistication behind this seemingly easy beverage. I sampled among the nation’s best teas, resembling the sunshine, grassy sencha. However the spotlight was the hands-on lesson: mastering the fragile roasting and brewing strategies myself.

I realized that the water temperature, the steeping time, and even the way in which the leaf is harvested all contribute to the ultimate, advanced taste. It was a lesson in endurance and precision, a metaphor for the Japanese spirit. I got here away with a home made teapot, which I’ve been utilizing to brew my very own inexperienced tea ever since I got here dwelling!

This journey, supported by the Tokyo Conference & Guests Bureau, was a journey of distinction—from the high-speed trains of progressive Tokyo to the quiet depths of a cup of inexperienced tea. 

It’s not one I’ll quickly overlook.